Cook the Book | 'Arabiyya' by Reem Assil + Pastry Rolls With In-Season Fruit Compote

Photography by Alison Engstrom

What could be better than a warm and flaky buttery pastry enlivened with freshly picked summer fruit? Not too much it turns out, so for this recipe for pastry rolls, we turn to the notable new book by Reem Assil, Arabiyya: Recipes from the Life of an Arab in Diaspora. In this personal book she shares a range of delicious recipes, many of which she serves at Reem’s California, her Los Angeles restaurant and café. Inside you’ll want to bookmark dishes such as Onion-Studded Lentil and Rice Pilaf, Chard-Tahini Spread, and Charred Eggplant Salad, in addition to mouthwatering pastries and breads to accompany her recipes.

In the latest installment of Cook the Book, we turn to the Bakery Sweets section for an adaptation of her Quince and Cheese Pastry Rolls. These layered treats are slightly sweetened with sugar and while quince is currently not in season, instead opted for fruit compote from local cherries and peaches. The ricotta, which the original recipe called for, was also omitted. The result is a treat that can be enjoyed with a strong espresso and will make your whole home smell like a heaven.

Pastry Rolls With In-Season Preserves

Makes 8 large rolls of 12 small rolls

Recipe adapted from Quince and Cheese Pastry Rolls from

‘Arabiyya: Recipes from the Life of an Arab in Diaspora’ by Reem Assil

Poolish

1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons warm water

3/4 cup bread flour

1 teaspoon dry active yeast

Dough

1 cup whole milk, warmed slightly

2 teaspoons dry active yeast

3 1/2 cups bread flour

1/4 cup sugar

1 tablespoon kosher salt

Oil for greasing bowls

1 egg, beaten to use as egg wash before baking

Butter Block

2 sticks high-quality European-style unsalted very cold butter, like Kerrygold or Chimey

Fruit Compote

Cherries, blueberries, peaches, nectarines, about 1 cup (remove pits, and if you are using stone fruit, chop into small pieces)

Sugar to taste, about 1 to 2 tablespoons depending on sweetness of fruit

2 teaspoons corn starch

Directions: Prepare the poolish by combining water, flour, and yeast in a small bowl. Stir to combine until dough forms, if it’s too dry, add one teaspoon of water until it comes together. Cover tightly with a cover, like reusable Bee’s Wrap. Let rest for up to two hours or overnight in the refrigerator—if you chill, bring to room temperature before using.

Next make the dough. Place warm milk and yeast in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook. Let sit for five minutes to active the yeast. Next add the poolish, flour, sugar, and salt and mix on low until dough begins to come together. If you find the dough is drier, add one tablespoon of warm water until it’s incorporated and the dough begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Mix for about 10 minutes. Cover tightly and let rise in a warm place for two hours.

Next make the butter block. Place a large piece of parchment, about 12 inches on a flat surface. Slice cold butter lengthwise into long thin strips and lay onto parchment paper making approximately an 8x10 inch rectangle. Wrap parchment around butter rectangle, taking care to make sure there aren’t any open seams. Using a rolling pin, pound or roll butter until it’s one cohesive block of butter. Put into refrigerator until ready to use.

Next assemble the dough. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and generously flour paper, set aside. Flour a working surface and roll dough into a long rectangle about 12 x 14 inches and place the long side towards you. Remove butter block from the refrigerator and place into the middle of the dough. Fold dough on both sides over the butter block and run a rolling pin over the seam and roll until length is about 30 inches. Then roll dough over itself, it will be half the size, and place onto prepared baking sheet and place in the freezer for ten minutes. This ensures that the butter stays extra cold. Remove from freezer and repeat process by rolling dough until it’s about 30 inches and then onto itself. Place into the freezer for ten more minutes. Repeat process of rolling dough one last time until it’s about 25 inches, then with length side facing you, using a sharp knife, cut 8 even strips of dough or for smaller rolls, cut into 12 slices.

To form rolls. Wrap each of the dough strips around your fingers, tucking the end at the strip at the bottom of the roll. Place rolls onto parchment paper, leaving plenty of space for them to rise. Place in the refrigerator overnight to proof.

Baking the rolls. Remove the rolls from the refrigerator and let rise at room temperature for at least 1.5 hours. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Generously brush with egg wash and bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until they are a rich golden brown. Let cool before enjoying. Serve with fruit compote and enjoy.

For the fruit preserves. Place fruit into the base of a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add fruit, sugar, and corn starch and cook over low to medium heat until fruit breaks down. Let cool before enjoying.