A Guide to The Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen in Paris

Photography & Words by Alison Engstrom

For as long as I can remember, I have always been fascinated by anything with a history. The stories that lurk behind a vintage object or an old building's façade provide a tantalizing glimpse into the past.

When it comes to antiques, France has a history brimming with both gilded glory and Provençal charm, one that has always had the ability to tug at my heartstrings (not to mention my wallet). To get a better understand- ing of what the country has to offer, I teamed up with antiques expert Toma Clark Haines, founder of The Antiques Diva & Co. Originally from Oklahoma, Toma moved abroad to live the European life, at one point residing in Paris for several years. But after being denied a work visa in France, she found herself with a lot of free time on her hands. She occupied her days with various hobbies, including combing the many flea markets around the city. Her friends noticed that she had a real knack for unearthing one- of-a-kind treasures and nabbing them for a great price. It wasn’t long before Toma stumbled upon an opportunity to turn her love of antiques into a full-fledged business — creating bespoke, private antiquing tours to some of the world’s most famous antiques markets — and in 2008, she did just that. Today she is based in Berlin, but her thriving company operates in 15 countries throughout Europe and Asia and now includes the United States, catering to a clientele that ranges from antique lovers to the design trade.

shop nostalgia by ROSE & IVY

I met up with Toma in Paris, where we began a five day antiquing trip which would culminate in Provence. Our adventure kicked off on a Friday evening. Danielle, one of Toma's Paris-based guides, and her husband, Jean-Pierre, hosted an intimate dinner party for her colleagues, in their spacious apartment, located on a tree-lined street in the 16th arrondissement. Upon entering their home, my eyes were immediately drawn to an assortment of vintage perfume bottles perched on a shelf, and I questioned Danielle about them. She proudly showed me the pieces and after expressing my utter admiration, she took me to see her "secret" trove, which she kept in her salle de bain. She opened a cabinet to reveal a collection of gilded glass bottles from the 1920s, some with trailing atomizers in black and gold from Marcel Franck, as well as some vintage apothecary bottles from Roger & Gallet. She explained that she had found many of them in Paris and elsewhere in France for quite the bargain. If this was any indication of what I'd be encountering on this trip, I couldn't wait to get started.

The next morning, we began at the Clingancort market, also known as the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, for which The Antiques Diva & Co. serves as the official guide. This impressive market, which draws both locals and tourists, is the largest in the world. It boasts an astounding seven miles of alleyways divided into 15 districts and packed with over 2,000 vendors. The history of the Paris flea markets is a fascinating one dating back to the 1860s, when Baron Haussmann re-zoned the city, forcing the street merchants out of the city center. Undeterred, they quickly set up shop on the outskirts of Paris, where the present-day markets are based. Word spread and soon enough, amused Parisians followed, making a Sunday afternoon's entertainment out of wandering among the wares in search of treasures. The phrase "we are going to the fleas" was coined around this time, since the probability of purchasing something with an infestation was unfortunately rather high. Today, the mar- ket is so popular that more visitors go there each year than to the Eiffel Tower, and to this day it remains very much a part of French culture. In fact, many Parisians can routinely be found discussing their weekend finds while sipping their espressos at the office on a Monday morning.

We started off in a lesser-known area of the Clingancourt market, Marché de L’Entrepot, located in a long, narrow warehouse where rows of ornate gold-framed mirrors leaned against one another and dozens of crystal chandeliers were suspended overhead. I immediately spotted a stunning furniture set: a chocolate brown velvet settee with matching chairs, accented with braided fringe — all three pieces for the equivalent of a mere $175. My elation quickly turned to resignation, however, as I realized they wouldn't be coming home with me since they couldn’t fit into my suitcase.

Navigating the Clingancourt market is best done with the help of a guide like Toma or Danielle, since they can steer you in the right direction, especially if you are organized and have a wish list. A skilled guide will save you not just time but also money. As we meandered though the different alleys, I noticed that both Toma and Danielle were very friendly toward the vendors and on a first-name basis with most. How- ever, if you are going it alone, a trip to to the market can be quite daunting. Toma recommends that if you only have time to visit one district, head to Paul Bert Serpette. Not only is it the most picturesque district, with pastel façades and wisteria vines tumbling from its awnings, it also offers a well-rounded assortment of furniture, smaller items (also referred to as "smalls") and vintage fashion.

Toma, who can be found criss-crossing the globe at any given moment, has an infectious enthusiasm for antiques, and her humorous commentary kept me in stitches much of the time. Her goal is simple—to make antiques fun, modern, sexy and relevant. After you've spent a little time with her, you soon come to understand that her ambitions for her brand stretch far beyond merely finding unique pieces. She wants her clients to not only find the perfect item, but also to "buy the story" and become a part of it, adding their own histories to those of the previous owners. Toma believes that when you buy an antique, you purchase the memories attached to it and bring a piece of the past back home with you.

You can also expect to get a thorough schooling in the finer points of antique hunting as you wander through the stalls chatting with vendors, especially with a guide by your side. Michel Ruis of MDRS Antiquités, who stocks exquisitely gilded Louis XV and XVI pieces in the Marché Dauphine, walked me through the two periods of furniture and how to differentiate between them. He taught me how to iden- tify the basic design details of Louis XV furniture — most notably, curved legs—and those of Louis XVI, which has straight legs. Toma then instructed me to feel the wood grain under the seat of one of the chairs. She explained that if the wood feels smooth, it means the piece was machine-made, but if it has texture, that means it was cut by hand, which adds more value. Many vendors make a pledge to sell only authentic antiques—they post signs in their stalls that read, "No Fakes." But inevitably, there are some who misrepresent the age or authenticity of the objects they sell, so sometimes it's wise to remember that old adage, "Buyer beware". Another highlight of the Clingancourt market is the Marché Jules Vallés, a grouping of stalls off the beaten path from the main market. It has a spray-painted façade which makes an interesting, modern juxtaposition to the old-world treasures inside.

A GUIDE TO LE MARCHÉ AUX PUCES DE SAINT-OUEN, PARIS

OPEN Saturday, Sunday and Monday

STARTING TIMES

On paper, they say 9 a.m., but in reality the show begins at 10 a.m. and lasts until 6 p.m. On Sundays, it opens slightly later, around 10:30 or 11 a.m.

HIGHLIGHTS

Paul Bert Serpette, Marché de L’Entrepot, Vernaison, Marché Jules Vallés; the shops on Rue des Rosiers.

DETAILS

There are only two districts in the flea market that are reserved for professionals, L'Usine and Lecuyer. All others are open to the public. marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com

WHERE TO STAY

Considering the market receives so much foot traffic, it's surprising that there is only one hotel located within its parameters. Luckily, that lone hotel is a style-forward option created in collaboration with designer Philippe Stark. The Mob Hotel is a hip space with retro-inspired common areas and a rooftop garden that provides the vegetables for their in-house restaurant.

VINTAGE SHOPPING

The Paris flea market features many stalls that sell a range of collectible fashion pieces from the 1920s to the 1970s, some from even earlier periods. If you are looking for that special vintage clothing find, remember that sizing can be tricky. It might be wiser to stick with accessories like bags, hats, jewelry or shoes, according to a staffer at Les Merveilles de Babellou, a popular destination at the market that stocks an extensive collection of French designer brands like Nina Ricci, Chanel and Christian Dior. Currently, the most in-demand items are Chanel costume jewelry, Yves Saint Laurent pieces from the 70s and anything from Christian Dior.

WHAT YOU CAN DISCOVER

1950s couture dresses, Chanel costume jewelry, designer bags from the 1920s and a range of hat styles from different eras.