Behind the Brand With London-Based Shoe Designer Jennifer Chamandi
London-based shoe designer Jennifer Chamandi’s love for shoes traces back to when she was little and used to wear her mother’s heels while reciting her homework. Flash forward to today, the Lebanese born designer creates sought-after heels with her signature Eye of the Needle silhouette that is rendered in buttery shades with eye-catching patterns and textures. We caught up with the designer to find out how she went from a successful career in finance at Meryl Lynch to the fashion world.
You can shop her collection at Farfetch, Browns and NET-A-PORTER
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Can you share with us one of your first fashion memories?
My mum getting ready for dinner. She would delicately lay out her outfit, matching everything from her clothes, shoes to bag and jewelry—she was never without a bold touch of lipstick. I remember getting in her heels and walking around the house reciting my homework (5-line poems at the time!) saying I studied better in heels. Heels have this magical power of transforming you instantly.
What was the initial moment that inspired you to go from working in finance at Merrill Lynch to starting your own brand?
I always wanted to work in fashion and shoes specifically. However, my parents pushed me into academia as I was top of my class and they advised that a solid knowledge and understanding of business is the most precious asset and most secure start—I couldn’t agree more. At Merrill Lynch, my desk was entirely about shoes, I had a shoe calendar that a dear friend had gifted me, unveiling a new design a day, to remind me of my true passion and why I was starting my career in finance. It was a bridge to eventually launching my own brand. I cherish my banking days and I am still very close with all the people I had the privilege to meet during my time at Merrill Lynch.
How did you decide on the shoe category?
My mother had a shoe obsession that she passed on to me. I remember her Kenzo designs, from zebra to snake—a lot of my initial inspiration came from her shoes. Also, shoes are so complex and technical, I called them the ‘Mathematics of Fashion’—something that satisfied both my right and left side of my brain!
What design school did you attend to learn the process?
I didn’t attend design school for Bachelor’s or Master’s degree. I studied economics at the London School of Economics then did short, intensive courses at some of the leading art and design schools in London, including Central Saint Martins and the London College of Fashion, in areas such as shoe design and footwear summer school. The level of teaching was incredibly sharp and I learned so much that I still apply when designing today. However, undoubtedly, the best school has been at the manufacturer of my shoes. Every time I go there, I learn so much more. You can have the most amazing idea but if it’s not translatable into a pattern it cannot be made.
What is your approach to the fast-moving fashion calendar?
I aspire for all my designs to be timeless, so I don’t really follow the fashion calendar. However, every season, I will introduce a material or colorway that I feel responds to particular trends, but always in classic styles to be in keeping with the aesthetic and values of the brand. Lately, I have been operating on shipping more frequent “drops” rather than twice a year full collections, as I feel this is how my clients are shopping these days. They are looking to make more frequent tweaks and adjustments to their existing wardrobes, rather than a complete overhaul every six months.
How did you arrive at the Eye of the Needle design element that you have patented?
It was a real ‘aha!’ moment. When I was first launching Jennifer Chamandi, I knew I wanted to have a strong aesthetic and a DNA special to my brand that was unique to what all other shoe designers were doing. I knew I wanted my shoes to have a classic silhouette, and my love for stilettos guided me. Eye of the Needle represents the “Talon Aiguille” which is the French expression for stilettos. I couldn’t believe anyone hadn’t thought of the idea before, as it seemed very simple to me. However, when I was developing the idea with my manufacturer we realised how complex it actually was to create. However, this made it all the more satisfying and exciting when the first pair were finished and brought to life! Receiving a patent for it from the UK Patent Office granting it as an invention is one of the biggest senses of achievement in my life.
Has your past professional life helped you navigate the life of being an entrepreneur?
Absolutely. In banking, I was very lucky to have been exposed to very important tasks at a very young age. I started working in finance at the age of 21 and was given responsibilities instantly. No sugar coating, no baby steps, I was thrown into the deep-end and that has shaped my entrepreneurial spirit. The pressure was enormous, but ultimately very rewarding, and was exactly how I felt when I first launched my brand. My first boss was and will remain the pillar of my career. He was incredibly supportive and nurturing whilst constantly pushing me to achieve and accomplish more.
What is the most valuable business advice that you have ever received?
Do not compare yourself to other brands and other designers. Always remember what makes you unique and cultivate this unique gift. Every designer is so talented in his/her own way and the pie is big enough for everyone to have a piece.
Who is the Jennifer Chamandi woman?
The Jennifer Chamandi Woman is a Woman On A Mission. I love to dress women who strive to be the very best they can be, no matter what path in life they take. She is a woman who is feminine, daring and expressive. She is an educated, a conscious consumer who is assured in her own unique sense of style and consistently makes mindful luxury choices.
What’s next for the brand?
Excitingly, at the end of last year I launched in the United States with Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, which was a dream come true! I am looking forward to further expansion within North America as the initial reception to Jennifer Chamandi has been great. I am also strengthening my own e-commerce which launched in November. It was a real learning curve for me but has been vital to the success of the brand as I have been able to reach new markets, which has been incredible.
Images Courtesy of Designer