Discovering the Best of Willemstad, Curacao
This article, True Blue originally appeared in ROSE & IVY Journal No.11
“So do you want to know the real reason the homes in Willemstad are so colorful?” My tour guide Tirzah Statia of Go Local in Curaçao asked me as we drove through the lively narrow streets of Curaçao’s capital. “The houses used to be all white but the founding Governor, Albert Kikkert would get ‘migraines’ because the sun was so bright. He asked all of the residents to differentiate their homes by painting them in a bright shade with white trim. It turned out that he owned a paint store on the island.” Despite the fact that he cajoled the residents of this Caribbean island for his own monetary gain, he had the right idea, because today, Curaçao is a vibrant destination that is full of life. The chromatic homes swathed in shades of powder blues, tomato reds, lime greens and bubblegum pinks stand out upon a striking backdrop of an impossibly blue ocean.
As a member of the A,B,C islands, which includes Aruba and Bonaire, Curaçao is a Dutch province with a landscape that is both lush and arid. Situated away from the hurricane belt, this isle offers both history and arguably some of the best beaches in the world. In scale, you can drive the 40 mile island in its entirety and find yourself blissfully swimming with schools of fish and unplugging completely.
Willemstad, the capital of Curaçao is steeped in history, one that dates back to 1634, when the Dutch took control from the Spanish and set up the island as a trade settlement. Today, the past is still present in the form of stunning architectural details that nod to Holland and narrow lanes that meander through the city center. Willemstad is divided by the Queen Emma Bridge, a floating pontoon connector that knits the two sections of downtown, Punda and Otrobanda, together.
What to See and Do in Punda
Pietermaai
Walk through the island’s colorful past, one that was fitted with prestigious mansions and chromatic narrow alleyways just steps from the sea, in the charming district of Pietermaai. This neighborhood, listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List is home to restaurants, boutique hotels and a variety of small shops. There is also a new beach, City Beach 88 with small pier that is great for taking a dip and snorkeling.
Old Market
Experience Curacao’s food culture by savoring a hearty meal at the Old Market. Currently housed in a temporary space—while the original structure gets renovated—here you’ll find a variety of food vendors selling specialties like pumpkin pancakes, a variety of stews, rice dishes and seafood, all at great prices. This no frills dining experience feels incredibly authentic, like you’ve been invited into a local’s home.
Scharloo
The intersection of where a new generation of islanders are setting up businesses among historic palatial buildings, once occupied by wealthy merchants in the 1800s. Today, the majority of the façades are decorated in picture-worthy life size murals. Wander the quiet streets of Bargestraat, Bitterstraat and Van Raderstraat to see works from local artists like Francis Sling and Garrick Marchena. After exploring, tuck into Fleur de Marie Eatery & Shop (van Raderstraat 9-11) a newcomer to the neighborhood run by Korra Pietersz-Juliana & Angela Guiamo. The menu spans the gamut from decadent to healthy—for breakfast, try their pumpkin bread French toast or vegan waffles and for lunch you’ll find lighter options like soup and salad to baked fish.
Where to Eat In and Around Willemstad
This casual spot offers a delicious Mexican fusion menu that includes avocado salad, addictive yucca fries, crispy fish tacos and a great drink menu that includes homemade sodas.
Another newcomer to the island, Number Ten is an inviting rustic restaurant set in the Landhuis Bloemhof garden, a plantation that dates back to 1735. The California meets Caribbean menu includes avocado toast, açaà bowls and house granola with great coffee options.
Wandu Café
Located across from the historic Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, this café serves a robust brew in addition to sandwiches and pastry, all in a relaxing space. (Hanchi Snoa, 14)
Enjoy breezy waterfront dining under a thatched hut at Koko’s at Jan Thiel Beach. Grab a leisurely brunch here, their fluffy blueberry pancakes and fresh coconut water are a sure bet.
Anders Batido
Taste the flavors of island life by slurping a batido—a frothy blended drink of tropical fruit and milk, at this popular food truck, located across the Queen Emma Bridge in Otrobanda. A tip—ask for half the amount of the sugar that they usually add.
Photography by Alison Engstrom