AMO Denim's Kelly Urban on the Brand's New Zero-Waste Collection
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The search for the perfect pair of jeans might take a while, but once you find it, you are golden. AMO, a LA-based brand started by Kelly Urban and Misty Zollars, is that type of denim that not only fits perfectly but is super comfortable. Today, the brand has released a new zero-waste initiative called REWORK that cuts back on deadstock fabric by repurposing it, as well as reimagining unsold inventory into new pieces. We chatted with Kelly about the new collection as well as what inspired her to start the brand.
What inspired you to start AMO?
It’s a little selfish. My business partner Misty and I both had this similar struggle - we couldn’t find the jeans we wanted to wear, so we decided to take a leap of faith, quit our jobs and set out to make the perfect pair. We dreamed of jeans that looked genuinely vintage, but from a feminine point of view. They also needed to fit well and had to be comfortable to wear all day. We searched the globe for the perfect denim that had all the characteristics of a rigid, vintage pair of jeans but with a hint of stretch for comfort. Finding the ideal fabric helped us get the rest of the formula right. It allowed us to create these truly authentic washes, and that little bit of stretch in the denim went a long way in terms of comfort.
How did you and your business partner meet?
We were co-workers for many years and we eventually became good friends. We realized we had similar tastes in fashion and shared a genuine love of vintage denim.
The brand has many design elements that nod toward vintage denim. Do you comb through denim archives to get inspired?
Yes! We have always collected vintage pieces and have several racks of vintage that we go back to each season for inspiration. To this day, each and every wash we’ve ever done has been inspired by a vintage jean. There’s simply no better way to create authentic, lived in washes!
What period are you most influenced by?
Probably the 60’s & early 70’s. I just love the denim of that era. It was before stretch denim was introduced so the jeans from that period are really beautiful with great highs and lows and classic fits. 100% cotton denim that is more structured holds up better over time and just has the ability to let the wearer make the jean their own. This in turn means vintage finds from that era are lovingly worn in and quite personal. I love thinking about the life that a pair of vintage jeans has had and imagining what kind of adventures they have been on, what concerts they went to, etc. Sounds silly, I know, but what is more personal than the things we wear? And for many of us, our jeans are our most worn item in our closet, so they really take on this personal note and end up being a sort of extension of who we are and the life we’re living.
Why was it so important for you to create your brand in Los Angeles?
LA has a long history of producing premium denim. The factories here have extremely skilled artisans who have been sewing and washing jeans for generations. Having that expertise at our fingertips is a big advantage of living and working in Los Angeles. Although many denim brands have started moving production overseas to take advantage of lower wages, I like being connected to the product we make and the people who make it. There’s really so much we gain from having our line produced locally; from ensuring our factories are paying workers fair wages to reducing our carbon footprint by limiting the distance our finished product has to travel. Currently all our factories are within a six mile radius from our headquarters.
What spawned the idea of the Rework collection?
The inspiration behind our REWORK Collection was simple; create special one-of-a-kind pieces using only on hand deadstock premium denim and past season styles. It started off as just an experimental project – for example, taking a pair of jeans and transforming them into a skirt. The new reworked styles came out better than I could have imaged and I loved how no two were exactly alike. Each piece felt special and unique, so we offered a small capsule, making no more than 100 pieces per style and it got a really great response. REWORK is a true labor of love and a small part of our ongoing effort to minimize waste while creating a beautiful product that is made in Los Angeles.
What are some things that you think the fashion industry as a whole can do to become more sustainable?
I think talking to your vendors and suppliers is the first step. If there’s demand then change will follow. For example, we’ve been working with the same family owned denim mill since we launched. I asked if we could start making our signature denim fabrics with certified organic cotton and they’re currently developing that for us (I seriously can’t wait!). I really believe people and companies want to be more sustainable. I think it’s just about starting small and making an effort to support those vendors and suppliers who are making positive changes. Another good place to initiate change is within your work environment. Some modifications are easy like not buying plastic water bottles for guests, using recycled paper and printing less, recycling plastic properly, etc. Other changes take more time. We recently switched out all our plastic polybags for compostable plastic-free ones which took eight months of development, but it was well worth it. Every bit counts and once you make small changes you begin to have this positivity around sustainable choices and start asking yourself what else you can be doing and sharing what you’ve learned with others.
Do you foresee more zero-waste projects on the horizon for the brand?
Yes! We are working on a second edition of REWORK styles which will launch towards the end of this year. We’re also looking at denim fabric recycling, meaning using denim that is made from recycled garments and fibers. I really think sustainable production practices like this will become the new normal and I love that so many consumers are asking questions about environmental impact and where their clothes were made. It’s definitely becoming a more transparent world for fashion and I think that’s a very good thing.
The perfect denim is… authentic, personal, made in the USA
My no fail denim pairing is… High waist, straight leg jeans paired with just about anything!
My favorite AMO cut is…The Babe jean, which is traditionally made in our vintage stretch denim, but we now offer a Rigid Babe made in 100% cotton which is my NEW favorite Babe jean!
AMO in three words…Vintage, Modern, Feminine
